Oh, yeah: bacon donuts at Baker and Banker

GUARDIAN PHOTO BY VIRGINIA MILLER

virginia@sfbg.com

APPETITE Earthy, savory desserts call out to me. Despite my diminishing tolerance for excessive sugar, ice cream and gelato remain my biggest weaknesses, and I'm as appreciative of baked goods and balanced, unique desserts as I ever was. There are a slew of new and noteworthy Bay Area sweets on my menu — and a couple older places worth revisiting. (Visit the Pixel Vision blog at SFBG.com to read about six more.)

MISO SESAME RICE CRISPIES AND SOME OF SF'S BEST ICE CREAM

Run by husband-wife pastry chef dynamos Dennis and Eloise Leung (their fine dining background included Bong Su, a restaurant I still miss), Delise is a small cafe near Fisherman's Wharf. Now three years old, the cozy spot is home to some of the best ice cream in SF (you read that right), cupcakes (thankfully unlike the typical "cupcake" served elsewhere), bars, cookies, bagels from House of Bagels, and sandwiches with unique Asian twists like crab salad in ginger turmeric aioli and kaffir lime dressing. Highlights are many, including a matcha green tea cupcake filled with red beans or a miso sesame rice crispy. I dream of ice cream flavors like Triple Threat, possibly the best pumpkin ice cream I've ever tasted with candied pumpkin seed and ale, or divine toasted rice ice cream, which is also served — alongside a few of Delise's sorbets and ice creams — at Martin Yan's brand new M.Y. China.

327 Bay, SF. (415) 399-9694, www.delisesf.com

IN LIEU OF ICE CREAM, THERE'S FROZEN CUSTARD

Since its debut at the Underground Market in 2011, Frozen Kuhsterd (launched by Jason Angeles, who now runs it with Alex Lam and Tim Luym) has proffered a Midwestern favorite with roots in Coney Island. Dense, creamy, soothing, it's like ice cream made with eggs alongside cream and sugar. Available at a few locations, including from their food truck at SoMa StrEAT Food Park (follow on Twitter @frozenkuhsterd), flavors like Cinnamon Toast Crunch (Cereal Milk) and Thai Iced Tea are already a hit, Peppermint Bark and Eggnog Latte hook me for the holidays, and I'm eager to try the likes of Coffee Mint Mojito. Besides unusual sundae toppings, the custard is served in varying formats and as part of collaborations announced via social media, such as in donut sandwiches with Dynamo Donuts or in French pastry favorite kouign-amann from B. Patisserie.

www.frozenkuhsterd.com

YES, THERE IS A CHOCOLATE LAB

Afternoons at Chocolate Lab, chocolate master Michael Recchiuti's brand new, all day chocolate cafe in the original Piccino space, feel almost Zen-like. Friendly service in cozy, light-filled environs, sitting at the communal table or at high corner tables with a Bay shrimp tartine sandwich, finished off with an affogato... it's a happy respite. Opt for a Virgil's root beer or cream soda float layered with Recchiuti extra bitter chocolate sauce and chocolate malt ice cream, then stop off at the shop next door to purchase some chocolates to take home.

801 22nd St., SF. (415) 489-2881, www.chocolatelabsf.com

INSTEAD OF TWINKIES, TRY TWINKS

The first time I visited Inner Richmond's new Pretty Please Bakeshop was two days post-opening — before the demise of Twinkies. I knew even then that "twinks," far superior versions (think Twinkies for the gourmand), would be a hit. Trying to decide between red velvet, banana bread, or pumpkin twinks means I just get one of each. The rest of the offerings please, from cupcakes to a quality Ding Dong — yes, they've got that covered, too.